A rosé in any other season... by Christopher St. Cavish.

It’s pink. It’s light. It works as well with a patio chair as it does with any kind of food. It’s rosé, and it’s not your mom’s bubblegum, summer pink drink any more. Everyone’s doing it. California has a serious winery dedicated exclusively to it and London’s The Times reported last week that the French have overcome their snobbishness towards it – one in five bottles sold in France this year will be pink. I sat down recently to taste a few, the first time with Kelvin Tay, beverage director of the Pudong Shangri-La, and the second with a group of friends on a sticky Wednesday night.

Domaine des Pasquiers

(Epicvre, ¥128.)

Domaine des Pasquiers is a fairly big vineyard estate in the Rhone Valley making mostly red with the traditional grapes of the region. But the label also produces this rosé, a Vin de Pays de Vaucluse using some of the same varietals: a blend of 40 percent grenache, 40 cinsault, and 20 percent syrah. Though it doesn’t give too much away on the nose, unlike lots of cheap rosés, at least the fruit remains mute in the mouth. But it’s too acidic to be elegant – this one should be served extra cold or you’ll risk a touch of bitterness peeking through on the finish.   

Clarendelle Rosé

(ASC, ¥265.)

Clarendelle is to Chateau Haut-Brion as Mouton Cadet is to Mouton Rothschild. That is to say, an accessible wine overseen by a very respected Bordeaux house, about perfect for summer afternoons – do you really want a Pauillac first-growth at 4pm when it’s 36 degrees outside anyway? Clarendelle’s rosé is a sexy, light pink color, like the second brush of blush on a cheek, with the subdued taste of red berries, and a bit of acidity on the finish. It’s Bordeaux’s varietals – 75 percent merlot, 17.5 percent cabernet sauvignon, 7.5 percent cabernet franc – in a mild, white summer dress, and though it’s refreshing on its own, would probably be better with a bit of light food. (Incidentally, Haut-Brion makes a delicious, sweet Amberwine also under the Clarendelle label – seek it out.)

Los Vascos Rosé Colchagua

(Summergate, ¥139.)

The Chilean Los Vascos’ warm weather entree is a 100 percent cabernet sauvignon number, with a knockout aroma. The nose is bursting with fruit – red berries, gooseberries, and even a touch of watermelon. It’s tough for the body to live up to it, so it instead goes goes quite minerally and buttery, “like a fruit tart” one taster remarked, with a vigorous acidity towards the end. The winery suggests opening it half an hour before drinking and serving it with classics like cold meats and light chicken dishes. Kelvin was a little more fun with his pairings. “Thai-style grilled pork neck, deep-fried dim sum, and Peking duck,” he suggested. “The acidity would help cut them down.”

SoloRosa 2005 California Rosé

(Globus, ¥178.)

We highlighted this Californian, rosé only winery over the winter, with their late harvest, but this is really their time to shine. Start a serious winery dedicated to just rosé, like Jeff Morgan did, and your summer is guaranteed to be a hectic blur of talking about it. Morgan’s written a rosé book, been lauded by big-shot wine critics, and doesn’t make any other styles – rosé it is. Not surprisingly, this spicy, dry blend of sangiovese and merlot grapes stands out like a pale pink neurologist at the Beach Honey final. The taste is of more cooked red fruits, the alcohol content is high, and it is, as Morgan puts it, “a pink wine for those who think they only like red.”

Casa Solar Tempranillo

(Summergate, ¥109.)

Tempranillo has been in Spain’s greatest wines for centuries – it’s the main grape in Rioja, and it translates well into rosé. Casa Solar’s is a dark rosy color and has a fresh, fruity aroma. It’s quite dry, but the strawberry/cherry flavor and touch of acidity make this the quintessential rosé – it’s as thoroughly summer as linen pants, sandals, and a bottle of wine in the shade. When you think of summertime sippers, you’re probably imagining this one.

Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Rosé

(Vin, ¥110.)

Robert Mondavi’s first wine was a rosé, a Napa valley gamay. That was more than 40 years ago, before Mondavi played a major role in getting American wines into shape and partnering with big-name French families. He kept doing the great wines, but also added Woodbridge, a mass-production label that caught on like wildfire for raising the quality of inexpensive wines. It’s still not going to appeal to connoisseurs – this rosé is a sugary white zinfandel that smacks of bubblegum – but if ever there were a time to drink a sweet, candy-pink wine, August is it.

Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto D’Acqui

(ASC, ¥390.)

This Italian sparkler is made from the Brachetto grape and is a gorgeous ruby red. It’s heavily concentrated and very luscious – more a dessert wine with a bit of fizzy lift (it’s the red cousin of sweet Moscato d’Asti) than an outdoor, terrace wine. Picture a strawberry in the middle of rose, and you’re there for the aroma; the taste is like a raspberry tart, Christmas puddings, and strawberries and cream. Like strawberries, it’s also great with chocolate.

Directions

ASC, delivery only, 6445 3214 ext 131.

Epicvre, 98 Xinle Lu, near Xiangyang Lu, 5404 7719.
新乐路98号, 近襄阳路

Globus, Ferguson Lane, 376 Wukang Lu, near Hunan Lu, 6466 8969. 武康路376号, 近湖南路

Summergate, delivery only, 6329 4433 ext 238.

Vin, Shop 118, North Block Xintiandi, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, near Madang Lu, 6385 2127. 太仓路181弄新天地北里118单元，近马当路