Eat at the Grand Hyatt and expectations are high. Appetizers and pizzas average ¥120; main courses, ¥230; windows frame spectacular views of the Pearl Tower. The measured atmosphere – tables are centered around an open kitchen and a brick oven – relaxes the hotel stiffness a bit, making Cucina feel more trattoria than formal restaurant.

Behold, the nice face of Julu Lu. Directly opposite the street’s last strip of seediness lies Leting Jasmine, the domestic house of privilege and expensive cars. It’s a villa of fine Chinese food for fine, entitled people. The more entitled, the higher one goes.

“I’m afraid it’s not the right season.” Thus the waitress politely rebufed our order for edamame. Were it not for the hewn granite surrounds, you might feel uncomfortable. As it is, you’re half tempted to hug her. Or, better yet, climb atop the polished granite and just sprawl, lion-like, across the sushi prep table.